HALF DOME STAT'S
Summit elevation: 8,842 feet
Hike elevation gain: 4,800 feet
Distance: 17 miles
Hiking time: 10 to 12 hours
Climbers: About 50,000 people make it to the summit each summer. Millions have hiked it since the Sierra Club installed cable handrails on the side of Half Dome in 1919. Avoid going on Saturdays, when the number of hikers triples compared with other days.
4:45am could not have come earlier, my first ever breakfast in the pitch dark. Previous half dome hikers recommended that we start our trek at dusk to give us ample amount of time to get up and down the mountain before dark. So here I am at 5am making sure that I have clothes for the heat layered with clothes for the cold. The group is making bagel and cream cheese for breakfast, and bagels and turkey for lunch. All the food is laid out on the picnic table and we are grabbing what we can to last us for our 12 hour adventure.
We got on the trail head around 7am.. (rookie mistake) In a perfect world and on a perfect hike this could have been an ok time to leave but as you will see it was not the most seamless hike. The cables (peak of the dome) were also very crowded at this time. Had we left an hour earlier we may have avoided the crowds.
The trail begins with what could be equivalent to a 20-minute StairMaster extreme workout, it's good to take a snack break next to the mouth of Vernal Fall. From here you can look down on the land you've conquered, and at the same time realize you're just one-fourth of the way to standing atop Half Dome.
About 1.5 miles in a choice has to be made. Do we take the waterfall route (vernal falls/mist trail) which is much steeper but shorter in length or do we take the John Muir Trail which is longer but not as steep. A friend had recommended the steeper route due to the picturesque waterfalls and being that we still had our morning energy from our instant coffee we decided to take his advice.
The trails first two miles snake along the Merced River and pass by some of the hike's most beautiful scenery. You'll soon discover why they call this section the Mist Trail, with the 317-foot Vernal Fall giving hikers a light spraying. It's good timing, though, because climbing hundreds of granite steps next to the waterfall gets the sweat going.
The waterfalls are spectacular, the hike is hard. Just when you think the toughest part is over there is still 2 more miles of steep switchbacks. Thankfully the time was on our side and we were cruising up the mountain. We feared we would be conquering these switchbacks in the sun but we were lucky enough to enjoy this part of the hike in the shade.
We then reached the "pre-dome", one of the highlights of the hike. There was a rock that we all decided to take some amazing pictures at. At this point it was also time for some lunch and some resting time. I began to feel my body aching and was happy that the dome was near. Little did we know the hardest park of the hike was near....
When are belly's were satisfied and we re-boosted our bodies we decided to finish the trek up. The most challenging part of the hike is the granite staircase to the dome (cables). This is a 20 minute climb up and an 800 ft. elevation change. At this point in the hike the sun is shining down and you feel like you are slowly crawling up the base of the mountain. I sweat so much I could of filled a water bottle which meant once we got to the base of the cables it was time for a water break.
When you get to the top of the granite staircase you see the people climbing up the dome on cables. I thought to myself these people are nuts! There is no way I am climbing up cables at a 90 degree angle (exaggeration)... and not braced it!! But we had made it this far there was no giving up. We received helpful advice from the people coming down the cables to make sure we brace ourselves on the 2x4's and to not get stuck in between a 2x4 or our arms will give out on us. Oh Great~!!
The cables are a little more than shoulder-width apart and start out about waist high. But as the 45-degree angle up the mountain turns into 55 degrees, you're reaching above your head to grab the cables. Two-by-four slats of wood have been placed on the granite between metal poles, serving as planks to rest your feet on as you gain elevation. Just put your body parallel to the rock and pull yourself up as you walk. It's as easy and exhausting as that.
The cable climb should only be about 15 minutes but because we arrived to the dome at peak time the climb took around an hour. But then you are there. You've made it to the top of the 5-acre dome. The most beautiful site. The best part about it all is you know you are standing at 8,842 feet, and that brings a shared sense of achievement. You meet so many strangers and begin to make new friends that you can share your hiking struggles with and learn new hikes that you plan to conquer next.
I found this quote on the Yosemite website:
"For a lot of people, it's one of those life goals," said Yosemite park ranger and spokesman Scott Gediman. "It's an icon. Look at the state quarter program -- what was chosen as the symbol of California? The California condor, John Muir and Half Dome."
Pretty spectacular!!
The hike up is only half the battle and half the hike. Now it was time for the trek down...
Some say that going down the cables is harder than going up. I disagree, but it's difficult nonetheless. The key is to go down backward, letting the cables glide through your gloves. It's sort of like rappelling down a mountain, only in this case your legs always stay on the granite.
We took the same path down past Little Yosemite Valley, where we met up with the Merced River again. At this point we were all starring down at our feet as we trekked down the steep switchbacks. Our legs were aching and all we could think about was getting down the mountain.
Finally we reached the intersection where we were halfway down. We now had 4.5 miles to go. We all made the executive decision to not go down the steep waterfall route but instead to take the John Muir Trail route which would be easier on the knees. One of group members had to stop because her feet were covered in blisters.(rookie mistake) We learned the value in Moleskin and prepping our feet for this endeavor. I was worried because I wore running shoes but I prepped my feet, wore two pairs of socks and avoided any feet issues.
The blisters caused my friend to walk very slow. I was worried that it would be getting dark soon so it was decided to hurry down the mountain ahead with her car keys so she could be picked up at the trail head and could avoid the last 1.5 mile walk to the parked car.(Rookie Mistake)
With about two miles left in the hike there are now two very confusing signs. One which says " No Stock, Feet Only" and the other "No Feet, Stock Only", both signs say something about a mis-trail. Well at this point I am in delirious mode and my body is in survivor mode. I end up falling the way of the switchback and heading left..... I was supposed to go right.
This took me on an extra 3 miles to an unknown service road and emptiness. Luckily, I was able to find my way to a shuttle. The hard part was remembering where the car was parked. After walking some more, the car was located at 7:30pm.(Pitch dark) But the car was found and that was a huge sense of relief. The hike was over.
I have learned several things from this hike:
WHEN TO GO:
Depending on snow conditions, the cables are generally up from Memorial Day to mid-October. Make sure you get cable permits. ($5 each)
A seven-day park admission costs $20 per car.
TRAILHEAD: Drive past the Pines campgrounds and look for the "Trailhead Parking" sign. From the parking lot, it's about a half-mile walk to the trailhead at Happy Isles or you can park at Curry Village Trail Head parking but you will have a 1 mile hike to the trail head.
WHAT TO BRING:
- Good shoes, good traction
- Prep feet ( Moleskin works great)
- Two-liter's of water
- Gatordae ( i wish I would have had some, i was craving it)
- Snacks and a lunch
- Hat, sunscreen and sunglasses
- Extra pair of hiking socks (not cotton)
- Hiking poles (these would have been very helpful
- Work gloves (for the cables)
- First-aid kit
-Lightweight flashlight or headlamp (just in case the sun goes down before you get down)
- Lightweight jacket or fleece ( warm clothes and cool clothes, you will be stripping down)
Let me know if you have any questions about this hike. I highly reccommend it!!
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